A woman emerging from under the veil of past
Ludmila was born around the year 860. Where? There is speculation about this, but it is probable that it was in
Central Bohemia, in today's
Mělník, as the daughter of the local prince. She was raised as a pagan who offered sacrifices to the Slavic gods. At about the age of 15, she married
Bořivoj, the first historically documented
Přemyslid prince and ruler of today's Central and Southern Bohemia. She was married for about 14 years and during that time, became the mother of 3 sons and 3 daughters. Together with her husband,
in 882 she accepted Christianity from the Moravian Archbishop, Methodius. When she was about 30 years old, she was widowed. But she did not withdraw herself, as was customary. She took a very active part in politics. Many people did not like this and tried to deprive the widowed princess of power and influence over the ruling princely family. Eventually, Ludmila took refuge in her fortified settlement of
Tetín in
Central Bohemia, where she
was murdered on 15 September 921, strangled by her own scarf, according to legend. Her death was apparently ordered by her own daughter-in-law, Princess Drahomíra, to consolidate her power. Ludmila
has been considered a saint by the people since 925, but her official canonisation from the pope was not declared until 1143.
Where to meet with St. Ludmila today
Since many years have passed since St. Ludmila’s death, it is not easy to find traces of her. However, a few traces do remain. Even today, you can still go to the promontory above the river Berounka to
Tetín in
Central Bohemia and see the
remains of the local fort. In the village Tetín, there is a church dedicated to St. Ludmila. It hadn’t stood there during her own lifetime; however, it was built at a later time. Prince Wenceslas, grandson of St. Ludmila, had her remains transported to
Prague and buried in the
Basilica of St. George within the grounds of the
Prague Castle. She is buried there to this day. Her tomb can be found in the chapel of St. Ludmila in the southern nave of the basilica. However, her skull is kept separately as a rare relic in the
treasury of the Cathedral of St. Vitus and is presented to the public only once a year, on 16 September on her feast day. There is one more trace of the princely couple Bořivoj I. and St. Ludmila within the grounds of the Prague Castle. When you walk through the II. and IV. Castle courtyard, see the
remains of the Church of the Virgin Mary. This church was built by the couple after returning from Moravia, after being baptised as Christians. It is the oldest Christian church in Prague.
The cult of St. Ludmila
The cult of St. Ludmila gradually spread from Prague to the whole of Europe and, thanks to Czech compatriots, further into the world. Among the dozens of churches and chapels dedicated to St. Ludmila, you will find both older churches, such as the
neo-Gothic church on Prague's Náměstí Míru Square in the
Vinohrady district, and new buildings. Several monasteries, wells and springs are also dedicated to St. Ludmila. The
most famous statue of St. Ludmila is the one standing in Prague on
Charles Bridge; it was most likely created in the workshop of Matyáš Bernard Braun and shows how Ludmila teaching her grandson Wenceslas how to read from a book. St. Ludmila is also part of the
equestrian monument of St. Wenceslas in Prague's
Wenceslas Square; the grandmother "supervises" her grandson on his right, sided by Saints Vojtěch, Prokop and Agnes of Bohemia.
Remembrances of 1100 years since her death
This year in September, there are many events in honour of St. Ludmila. They start in August and some continue through September and October. Exhibitions, concerts, church masses, pilgrimages. All this is ready for the
15 –17 September, when the festivities commence in
Prague at
Prague Castle and
Tetín. If your trip to the Czech Republic takes place at a later date, visit the
Czech Museum of Music in
Malá Strana in Prague. The National Museum has prepared a small exhibition called
St. Ludmila in Music. You can see it until 4 October 2021. The exhibition recalls the millennial presence of the cult of St. Ludmila in the music culture of the Czech lands. The
National Library is again preparing an exhibition
called St. Ludmila and Written Sources, where St. Ludmila will be presented in many different kinds of written sources. Unique exhibits will be showcased, from 14 December 2021 to 30 January 2022. And what about the above-mentioned pilgrimages? There is one that truly stands out. It is the
pilgrimage from Mělník to Tetín, following in her footsteps from her birth to her death, or from cradle to grave so to speak. The route leads through a field paths through the
Central Bohemian Region and measures 126 km, during which you can sink deep into your own thoughts and meditate on your life in peace and solitude. And then, perhaps, find new wisdom and gain new insights for person transformation.